What to do in Bilbao when it rains
Anyone arriving in Bilbao understands it straight away: here, the weather is not a detail, it’s part of the city’s character.
The rain comes and goes, often without warning, but it’s never a real problem. At most, it’s an invitation to step inside somewhere and discover what happens indoors. And on this front, Bilbao is more than ready.
In this travel diary, we’ll take you to all the “covered” places in Bilbao, where you can enjoy a wonderful day without worrying about the weather outside.
And I assure you, Bilbao, once again, will not disappoint you!
Here are some practical tips to fully enjoy Bilbao. They’re simple, but they can help you save time, money, and a bit of frustration. So remember that:
- Lunch and dinner start late: respectively from 2:00 PM and 9:00 PM onwards; many places therefore open a little later than in Italy.
- The day begins about one hour later than in Italy, so there’s no point in waking up too early if you want to see shops open, people walking in the streets, and city life in general.
- Many museums offer free entry on Wednesday or Sunday afternoons. But not the Guggenheim.
- Renting a car is not necessary unless you want to explore the Basque region. Major cities, such as San Sebastián, are easily connected by train and bus.
- The cuisine is considered one of the best in the world. Here, you go for Pintxos (Pinchos), and you certainly won’t miss classic tapas.
- From May to September is the best time to visit. July and August are a bit more crowded. Spring and autumn are beautiful for their colors.
- Book well in advance if you’re visiting during the Semana Grande (late August). In that case, check for possible traffic closures and scheduled events.
- Consider purchasing the Barik Card, the public transport card for the metropolitan area (not just the city) of Bilbao. With a single card, you can use the metro, tram, urban and interurban buses, and other integrated services, paying less than with single tickets and avoiding queues each time. A little-known advantage is that with the anonymous Barik card, several people can travel together using the same card. It’s therefore very convenient if you’re traveling as a couple, with family, or with friends. The Barik can also be purchased or recharged online on the official CTB website, by following the steps indicated at www.ctb.eus. A practical detail that, especially during crowded events like the Aste Nagusia, can save you time and quite a few hassles.
Bilbao’s Museums: An Unmissable Cultural Refuge
When the rain turns the Nervión grey, Bilbao responds with one of the richest museum offerings in Europe. More than twenty temples of culture await you in warmth and shelter. Ticket prices are generally affordable—except perhaps for the Guggenheim.
The 5 Must-Sees (+2) are:
- Guggenheim Museum: The steel titan designed by Frank Gehry, with its contemporary art exhibitions, will keep you busy for hours. With 1.2 million visitors a year, it’s a sure thing.
- Museo de Bellas Artes: The perfect antithesis—10,000 works from the Middle Ages to Chillida, in an intimate atmosphere. In February 2026 it is free to enter, although access is limited due to renovation works.
- Itsasmuseum: Not just any maritime museum. Here you can step aboard real ships and experience the history of the Port of Bilbao. When I visited, it was partially closed for restoration.
- Euskal Museoa: To truly understand the Basque soul, this is the right place, right in the heart of the Casco Viejo.
- Museo Arqueológico: A journey into the prehistoric past of the Basque Country, both fascinating and accessible.
- Museo de Arte Sacro: A small gem offering a journey through Basque iconography. Free admission on Tuesdays.
- San Mamés Tour: Museum + stadium of the Athletic Club. Even if you’re not a football fan, it’s very well done.
Few people know this, but there is a red thread — or rather, an iron thread — linking the industrial history of Bilbao to its football myth.
It’s no coincidence that San Mamés Stadium, or the bars during match days, resound with the powerful chant “¡Alirón, alirón, el Athletic campeón!” every time the Athletic Club wins.
This word has a unique origin, rooted in the region’s iron mines and its close commercial ties with England. In the late 19th century, British engineers working in the mines marked the purest and richest veins with the words “All iron”.
Basque miners adopted that lucky sign, pronouncing it exactly as it was written: “A-li-rón”. From an expression of joy in the tunnels that received this mark, it became the victory cry of the working-class city’s team: a true sound bridge between the industrial past and the sporting present.
Another curiosity about the Athletic Club: it is the only team in the world that fields only players born or raised in the Basque Country. It’s a choice of identity, an unwritten pact with its people.
So the next time you hear “¡Alirón!”, remember that the chant doesn’t just celebrate a goal. It tells a story of mines, community, and pride: it is the true sound of Bilbao.
Teatro Arriaga
Even just visiting it during the day is worth it, but if you manage to fit in an evening performance, a rainy day suddenly becomes elegant.
Inspired by the Opéra Garnier in Paris, the Teatro Arriaga is a triumph of eclecticism that dominates the square. Its façade is a story carved in stone: an attic level crowned by a clock, polygonal towers, and above all, balconies supported by caryatids and atlantes. These sculpted figures, with their generous and maternal shapes, earned the theatre the affectionate popular nickname “Casa de Maternidad” (Maternity House).
Yet behind the historic façade lay a surprisingly modern soul for the late 19th century. It was one of the most advanced buildings in Europe: equipped with electric lighting at its inauguration (abandoning gas) and even a telephone service that, for 15 pesetas, allowed wealthy citizens to listen to the opera comfortably from home. A true forerunner of 19th-century streaming!
Originally called “Nuevo Teatro de Bilbao,” in 1902 it received its definitive name in honor of the local genius Juan Crisóstomo de Arriaga. A prodigious composer, nicknamed the “Spanish Mozart,” whose brilliant life ended at just 19 years old.
The theatre’s history has not been easy: a devastating fire in 1914 and a severe flood in 1983 destroyed its original interiors. Subsequent renovations successfully preserved its soul: today it features a horseshoe-shaped auditorium (following the Italian tradition) that can host 1,200 spectators, with iron supporting structures that echo the resilience of the city.
Today, the theatre is more alive than ever. It hosts a prestigious program of opera, ballet, and drama, and offers guided tours to discover its secrets, from the gilded foyer to the underground areas. A symbol of elegance that has survived fire and water, keeping intact its role as a cultural beacon for Bilbao. Visit its official website!
The main balcony of the façade is the “stage zero,” the official and emotional starting point of the Aste Nagusia, Bilbao’s Great Week.
From there, on the Saturday that kicks off the nine days of festivities, the famous Txupinazo (opening rocket) is launched. And immediately after, Marijaia, the symbolic queen of the festival, appears with her arms raised in joy.
That moment triggers an explosion of energy in Plaza del Arenal, which fills with a celebrating crowd, tossing thousands of plastic cups into the air (the symbolic txikiteo), while the anthem “Badator Marijaia” echoes for the first time.
So yes, if you visit Bilbao during Semana Grande, this place is not just a beautiful building: it is the beating heart from which the organized and joyful madness that sweeps through the city begins. It is the epicenter of collective emotion.
Old Concordia Station
The Old Concordia Station (now part of Abando) overlooks the Ría and once welcomed its travelers with the Teatro Arriaga standing proudly opposite. The station is built in English railway style, and its iron-and-glass façade is one of the earliest examples of this architecture in Spain.
But that’s not what fascinates travelers like us. Beneath it once stood the baraja, the old informal sardine market, whose arches leaning against the river can still be seen today. There’s a famous folk song, “Desde Santurce a Bilbao,” which tells the story of a sardineira walking “por toda la orilla” (along the Ría), with her skirt rolled up, corset tight, basket on her head, selling sardines from Santurtzi door to door.
But the truth is, I’ve brought you here for another reason. You don’t need to rush in to catch a train, I promise. Step inside and head toward the ticket area of the new station. Look up. Above you stretches an enormous stained-glass window celebrating the Basque industries: the sea, mining, and steel. It’s a monumental artwork that greets thousands of travelers every day—yet very few truly notice it.
For those looking for something unusual, visit a “ghost” station: get off at Euskalduna (Line 1). Without spending a single euro, you can admire the spectacular underground architecture by Norman Foster, a true everyday work of art.
Although prehistoric and Roman traces (remains from 300 BC on Monte Malmasín) dot the area, the city’s real urban story begins in 1300, when it emerged as a strategic port.
Azkuna Zentroa
Azkuna Zentroa is much more than just a museum or cultural center. It’s a vibrant urban hub, a social and architectural experiment that’s perfect for a rainy day (or a sunny one). You can easily spend half a day—or more—here without getting bored and without getting wet: visit an exhibition, enjoy a coffee while looking at the suspended pool, watch a film, head up to the rooftop terrace, have lunch, and maybe even treat yourself to an hour of relaxation at the spa. It’s the quintessence of modern, creative, and social Bilbao.
Admire the Architecture and Public Art
- The Design by Philippe Starck: The building, a former wine warehouse dating back to 1909, was redesigned by the iconic French designer. Every corner is a surprise.
- The 43 Unique Columns: The central courtyard is famous for its 43 columns, each one different (made of marble, metal, illuminated, covered in books, even featuring a suspended pool…). It’s a permanent installation best experienced with your head tilted upward.
- The Suspended Pool (Plaza de la Piscina): A transparent swimming pool suspended 9 meters above the ground. You can swim while watching people walk beneath you (it’s part of the wellness center and requires paid access).
Experience Culture (Exhibitions, Cinema, Performances)
- Temporary Exhibitions: It regularly hosts major exhibitions of modern and contemporary art, photography, design, and social themes (often with paid admission).
- Cinema: Its movie theater (Atlan) offers a high-quality program: films in original version, themed cycles, festivals, and independent productions.
- Performances and Events: Since its opening, it has hosted concerts, dance performances, theater productions, and festivals. It serves as a stage for both the Basque and international creative scene.
Enjoy the Public Spaces (For Free)
- Stroll and Stay: The vast indoor spaces, with benches, steps, and lounge areas, are designed to be lived in. Locals spend time here reading, chatting, or working on their laptops. The atmosphere is informal and vibrant.
- Admire the Rooftop Terrace: Head up to the rooftop terrace. It offers a spectacular 360° view over Bilbao and is the perfect spot for a break. It also hosts a bar and a restaurant.
Wellness, Food, and Shopping
- Wellness Center and Gym: The Centro de Bienestar Islático offers a gym, swimming pool (the suspended one!), thermal baths, saunas, and treatments (paid access).
- Food and Drink: There are several options for every taste and budget:
- The Cafeteria for a quick coffee.
- El Tilo Gastro-Bar for pintxos and informal dishes.
- La Bistroteka for a more refined restaurant experience.
- The Rooftop Bar on the terrace for a drink with a view.
- Small Shopping Area: A few small shops sell design items, books, and local products.
Pintxos Bars
Now we’re really talking about flavor! In Bilbao, you don’t simply “eat” — you do the txikiteo (pronounced chic-chi-TEH-oh): a gastronomic pilgrimage from bar to bar, where each stop means a different pintxo and a small beer (zurito) or a glass of wine.
Pintxos are not just tapas: they are small culinary works of art, carefully balanced on slices of bread or served in small dishes, where tradition (like tortilla de bacalao or creamy croquetas) meets innovation. The best tip? Start around 1:00 PM or after 8:30 PM and simply follow the flow.
Here are 4 must-visit bars for a city tour through taste.
In the Casco Viejo, if it rains, you just need to stay under the arcades of Plaza Nueva:
- Café Bar Bilbao (Plaza Nueva, 6): here, tradition feels right at home. Authentic atmosphere, a constantly packed bar, and perfectly executed classic pintxos. Their quintessential “Bilbao pintxo” is the Gilda (olive, anchovy, and pickled chili — the very first pintxo in history), along with a plate of champiñones rellenos (stuffed mushrooms), best enjoyed with a chilled glass of Txakoli, the light and slightly acidic white wine of the Basque Country.
- Víctor Montes (Plaza Nueva, 8): just across the square, but a completely different experience. A historic and refined venue, with a wooden bar and shelves lined with antique bottles. Here, the pintxos are more elaborate. Ask for the foie a la plancha (grilled foie gras) or the prawn pintxos. Perfect for an elegant aperitif. Sit in the restaurant section if you’d like a full dinner of ultra-fresh fish.
In Abando, don’t miss:
- El Globo (Calle Diputación, 8): just a few steps from the Gran Vía, this is a modern temple of the pintxo. The bar counter is a triumph of creativity and color. Explore their innovative creations, often featuring raw fish, bold sauces, and contemporary presentations. Try their cod pintxo in any version and anything topped with Idiazábal cream (smoked Basque cheese).
- Ledesma N°5 (Calle Ledesma): the specialty of Ledesma N°5 isn’t a single dish, but a concept: top-quality ingredients transformed into modern, shareable plates, perfect for the venue’s informal atmosphere. Explore their inventive creations, often with raw fish, bold sauces, and stylish presentations. Try the croquettes, the must-have fried calamari, their cod pintxo in any variation, and even their burgers. I haven’t tried them myself, but they say they’re among the best in the city.
Whichever bar you choose and whichever pintxo you taste, I absolutely recommend following the ritual: step inside, order a drink, take a plate and help yourself to the pintxos from the counter (for the cold ones), or ask the waiter for the hot ones. Keep the toothpicks, as the staff will use them to count what you’ve consumed when it’s time to pay.
And if you still haven’t had enough, read Sabor a Bilbao: where to eat in Bilbao, between txikiteo and the flavors of one of the capitals of the Basque Country.
Traveling in the Basque Country means accepting a small truth: the weather here is part of the adventure. Sun, wind, and rain can alternate within a few hours, and your suitcase needs to be ready for anything.
The winning strategy is all about layers. Over a t-shirt, always bring a sweatshirt and, above all, a waterproof and windproof jacket – it will be your most useful item. Even in summer, the Atlantic wind can be sharp, so a light scarf or a neck warmer is never a bad idea.
Choose practical shoes. If you plan to leave Bilbao and explore the coast, you’ll need comfortable hiking boots for coastal trails, but also a pair of water shoes for rockier beaches. And don’t forget to pack your swimsuit and a lightweight towel (I bought this one to always carry with me when traveling to seaside cities): the Atlantic is cold, but the temptation of a brave dip or a walk with your feet in the water is always there.
Don’t be fooled by the cool breeze: the sun can burn. A hat and high-protection sunscreen are essential.
I almost forgot: a wind-resistant umbrella. I own one from Samsonite that survived two days of rain, but a girl from Bilbao recommended one from Lendoo , which she had and seemed very sturdy.
Complete everything with a bit of useful tech — offline maps and a weather app to check frequently — they can truly make a difference. As always, I brought my power bank. It may seem like a small detail, but it makes your days much easier, especially if you’re using GPS to navigate trails and want to capture every corner and special moment of your trip. I was given this one and I’m very happy with it. There are many different models available. Regardless of which one you choose, I highly recommend bringing one.
And with this suitcase, you’ll be ready to enjoy the Basque Country stress-free, adapting to the rhythm of this unique world.
So don’t let the typical Basque txirimiri discourage you — that fine, persistent drizzle that soaks Bilbao and the Basque Country for more than 120 days a year. The city is ready to surprise you even in bad weather, revealing treasures that sunshine often wouldn’t let you discover!
