San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
Let’s start with something practical: if you are planning your trip to the Basque Country, very likely San Juan de Gaztelugatxe (in Basque Gaztelugatxeko Doniene) is one of the places and photos you will have seen most often.
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is indeed one of the most magical and photographed places in the Basque Country and along the entire Cantabrian coast. It is an experience that combines nature, history, spirituality and popular culture.
This impregnable rock, a small rocky islet connected to the coast by a bridge and a staircase, suspended between ocean and wind, has been a fortress, a refuge for pirates, a place of pilgrimage and, more recently, the filming location of Dragonstone in the famous series Game of Thrones, which, for better or worse, has made it even more visited.
It is located about an hour from San Sebastián and Bilbao, and it is one of those places that, the moment you see it, you immediately understand why it has become iconic.
Here are a few practical tips that I hope will help you organise your visit to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe as smoothly as possible.
How to get there from Bilbao
- By car: this is certainly the most convenient option. Public transport is available, but it is particularly efficient during the summer season. Once you arrive, you will find three car parks, two of which are free, located approximately 1.5 km from the entrance. They are very convenient, but spaces are limited: there are reportedly around 250 spaces in total across the designated parking areas. They may be full during the middle of the day; approximately, the period between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. is the busiest.
- By bus: during the summer season, the Bizkaibus A3517 Bilbao–Bermeo service normally operates, passing through Bakio and also serving the Gaztelugatxe area. In Bilbao, the bus leaves from the San José Plaza stop, near Plaza Moyúa. The journey takes approximately 1 hour 10 minutes to 1 hour 20 minutes, depending on traffic and the service. You will need to get off at the Gaztelu Begi stop. During the rest of the year, when the A3517 does not travel directly past Gaztelugatxe, the journey becomes slightly more complicated. From Bilbao, take the A3518 Bilbao–Bakio bus from San José Plaza, near Plaza Moyúa, and get off in Bakio, normally at the Bentalde stop. From there, continue on the A3524 Bakio–Gaztelugatxe–Bermeo service and get off at the Gaztelu Begi stop. A short walk away, you will find the trail leading into the protected area of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. Dates, stops and service frequencies may change throughout the year. Before travelling, always check the official Bizkaibus website or the Bizkaibus app, searching for routes A3517, A3518 and A3524. Tickets are not normally booked online; they are purchased or paid for on board. You can also use the transport cards accepted on the Bizkaibus network, such as Barik, BAT and Mugi, according to the conditions in force at the time of travel.
- By train: if the bus timetable is not convenient, the most practical option is to travel to Bermeo from Bilbao with Euskotren and take the Bizkaibus A3524 service towards Bakio, getting off at Gaztelu Begi. Essentially, you will be travelling in the opposite direction to visitors arriving from Bakio. Always check the timetable on the official Euskotren website .
- With an organised tour: this is the ideal option for visitors who do not want to worry about logistics. Numerous agencies organise excursions departing from Bilbao, often combined with visits to Bermeo, Gernika, Mundaka or the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve. During the summer, boat trips are also organised, allowing you to see the islet from the sea, although without landing on it. Some tours include only a panoramic stop, while others provide enough time to reach the bridge and climb to the hermitage. Check the programme carefully before booking. I usually check availability on websites such as GetYourGuide or Civitatis.
How to get there from San Sebastián
- By car: while driving is the most convenient option from Bilbao, from San Sebastián it is almost essential. There are no direct public transport connections to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. If you choose to drive, once you arrive you will find three car parks, two of which are free, located approximately 1.5 km from the entrance. They are very convenient, but spaces are limited: there are reportedly around 250 spaces in total across the designated areas. They may be full during the middle of the day; approximately, the period between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. is the busiest.
- By bus: there are no direct public buses from San Sebastián to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, Bakio or Bermeo. You must therefore travel to Bilbao first and continue from there on the Bizkaibus services described above. The fastest option is normally the DO01 coach, which connects Donostia/San Sebastián directly with Bilbao, travelling via Zarautz. You can check the timetable and purchase tickets on the official Avanza Gipuzkoa website . The journey between Donostia and Bilbao normally takes approximately 1 hour 10 minutes to 1 hour 20 minutes. Including the connection and the second bus, you should allow at least 2.5 hours each way to reach Gaztelugatxe.
- By train: this is possible, but decidedly impractical. From San Sebastián, you can travel to Bilbao on the Euskotren E1 line, which connects Amara and Matiko without a change, but the journey takes approximately 2 hours 35 minutes. From Matiko, you can continue on the E4 line to Bermeo and then take the A3524 bus towards Gaztelugatxe. For a day trip, the San Sebastián–Bilbao coach is therefore much more convenient.
- With an organised tour: several day trips to Gaztelugatxe are available from San Sebastián. They are less frequent and generally more expensive than tours departing from Bilbao, but they avoid the connections required when travelling by public transport. The programme often also includes places such as Bermeo, Gernika, Mundaka or the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve. During the summer, boat trips are also organised, allowing visitors to see the islet from the sea, although without landing on it. Before booking, check that the tour actually departs from San Sebastián and provides enough time to reach the hermitage, rather than offering only a brief panoramic stop. You can check availability on GetYourGuide or Civitatis.
How to walk there from Bakio and Bermeo
- On foot from Bakio: there are several scenic routes for visitors who enjoy walking.
- Short route – Senda del Biotopo: this is a more direct option connecting Bakio with the Gaztelugatxe area. The route begins at the El Calero viewpoint, along the road leading from Bakio to the islet. It is approximately 2 km long, although you must also add the internal route to the hermitage and the return journey. In total, allow approximately 2.5 hours for the round trip.
- Classic circular hike: this is a circular route of approximately 14 km starting from Bakio beach. It is moderately difficult, has a total elevation gain of around 768 metres and takes approximately 3–4 hours. The route passes Mount Atxulo, Mount Burgoa and the hermitage of San Pelayo, as well as, of course, San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. In some cases, this itinerary is also known as the Ruta de las Ermitas.
- Coastal route towards Bermeo: for those looking for a longer walk, there is a coastal path connecting Bakio with San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, with the option of continuing towards Bermeo. One well-documented route begins at Bakio’s viewpoint park, follows the cliffs to the islet and then returns, covering a total distance of approximately 7.7 km.
- Alternative route: in addition to the stone path with uneven steps, there is a longer paved route with a generally gentler gradient. It may be less tiring, but the overall Gaztelugatxe route still includes steep slopes and is not suitable for people with limited mobility.
- On foot from Bermeo – July 2026 update: if you decide to travel to Bermeo by train, in addition to the bus connecting the town with San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, you will have another truly spectacular option: the walking route connecting Bermeo with San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, passing the impressive Cape Matxitxako. The project was completed with the opening, on 10 July 2026, of a new footbridge over the Madari stream, which made the route continuous and walkable without interruption. The starting point is located near the Itsas Gane football ground in Bermeo. Overall, the walk is approximately 7.5 kilometres long and takes around 3–4 hours for the return journey. The route leads to the Lurgorri restaurant, located at the entrance to the San Juan de Gaztelugatxe area.
How to plan your visit
- Entry to the natural area of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is free of charge. However, during the high season and on many public holidays, an online reservation is compulsory, as part of a system introduced to control daily visitor numbers. On other days, access may be unrestricted and no reservation may be required.
- The admission ticket normally shows a specific entry time, but it does not include parking or any additional services. I have been told that, on every exact hour — for example, at precisely 2:00 p.m. — a small number of tickets are released directly on site. However, they are not at all easy to obtain, so it is always preferable to book online in advance.
- Before travelling, always check the official San Juan de Gaztelugatxe website , where you will find the calendar of controlled-access days, any current notices and the link for making a reservation.
- During the winter, rough seas or adverse weather conditions may lead to restrictions or temporary closures for safety reasons. Gaztelugatxe is a very exposed location: in poor weather, seriously consider postponing your visit.
- The route includes steep slopes, uneven ground and 241 steps leading to the hermitage. Wear comfortable shoes with good grip and carry enough water, especially during the summer months.
When to visit
- In my opinion, the best time to visit San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is between May and June or during the second half of September. During these months, temperatures are generally pleasant, the vegetation is still very green and visitor numbers may be lower than in July and August. The descent, the climb back up and the 241 steps leading to the hermitage are also more enjoyable without the heat and crowds of the high season.
- Spring makes the landscape particularly beautiful, with green hillsides and flowers along the coast. However, the Basque weather remains changeable: rain is possible even during the warmer months, so it is always advisable to check the forecast a few days before your visit.
- July and August offer the highest chance of bright days and pleasant temperatures, but they are also the busiest months. When visiting Gaztelugatxe during the high season, book the free ticket in advance, choose the earliest available morning time slot if possible and avoid Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.
- Autumn and winter are suitable for visitors looking for a wilder atmosphere and fewer people, but they also bring a higher risk of bad weather. Rain, strong winds, slippery ground and rough seas may make the route more demanding and can result in restrictions or temporary closures. The waves can make the scenery spectacular, but I would not choose these months for a first visit, especially when travelling from far away or visiting with children.
- Given the choice, I would visit early in the morning. You will encounter fewer people, cooler temperatures and have more flexibility in the event of public transport delays. The late afternoon can offer beautiful light, but you must carefully calculate the time required to complete the route and check the departure time of the final bus when using public transport. In addition, the shape and orientation of the coastline do not guarantee that the sun will set directly behind the islet.
A bit of history (or legend) about San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, often also called Gaztelugatxe or “Castle of the Rocks” in Basque, is a jewel of the Bizkaia coast: accessible through a staircase of more than 200 steep steps, it leads to the ancient hermitage of Saint John the Baptist.
The origins of Gaztelugatxe date back to the 9th century, when King Alfonso III ordered the construction of a hermitage to thank Saint John the Baptist for protecting the Asturian fleet from a storm. It is believed that a structure already existed here around the 9th century; over time the place also had religious and defensive roles. In the Middle Ages, in fact, it became a defensive fortress (the name “Gaztelu-aitz” literally means “castle rock” in Basque, reflecting its defensive role) against Norman pirates and corsairs, suffering multiple sieges and fires.
The most famous episode took place in 1334, when the King of Castile, Alfonso XI, besieged the rock for more than a month. The resistance of only seven knights led by Juan Núñez de Lara, Lord of Biscay, forced the monarch to withdraw in humiliation.
But San Juan did not see only medieval battles. In 1596, the troops of the English pirate Sir Francis Drake looted the hermitage, taking away everything of value.
Years later, during a war with France, fourteen Huguenot ships threw the hermit from the cliff. The hermitage we see today is not the original one: it was rebuilt in 1886 after suffering serious damage.
However, the most fascinating legend — and the one you will hear most often — says that Saint John the Baptist, after landing in Bermeo, reached the islet in three giant steps.
The footprints of his steps are venerated in three places:
- Under the Arch of Saint John in Bermeo.
- At the foot of the rock, before starting the climb.
- On the last step, where there is also an inscription carved into the stone.
Along the path you can still see his “footprints” carved into the rock.
In the past, San Juan de Gaztelugatxe was a pilgrimage site where rituals of folk medicine were practiced: women who wished to become mothers left baby clothes, those suffering from migraines stuck hairpins into the rock or left txapelas (Basque berets), people with walking difficulties placed their feet in the footprints, and stutterers offered coins.
What to see in San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
The experience already begins from the parking area. From here the paths start (more gradual and pleasant) or the direct track that takes you to the bridge access. If you have time, take advantage of the vegetation-rich paths with unexpected views of the sea and Gaztelugatxe. Whatever your destination, the view will be worth it!
Before you can access the monumental complex, you will have to show your reservation. The entrance is in fact closed by a gate with staff checking access. As I recommended, organize yourself in advance and book online, especially in summer. There is also a very interesting free audio guide to download, which accompanies you along the 2 main access paths. Take advantage of it, it is very well done!
In recent months there has been talk about “illegal” access routes promoted on social media. Please avoid them! Besides being dangerous, they damage a delicate area.
Here the true owners are the cormorants and the gulls, which nest safely away from predators. But the most special bird is the European storm petrel. With an intense black color and a white band, it is the smallest among seabirds. And it is very difficult to see, because it spends most of its life out at sea.
The storm petrel returns to land only during the breeding season and when a storm is approaching. Its presence, in fact, announces bad weather. For this reason in Basque it is called Ekaitz Txori Txikia, which literally means the little bird of the storm.
It is not the only special species that inhabits the cliffs of Gaztelugatxe. This place is also a refuge for armeria euscadiensis, a small plant from the carnation family that in spring offers delicate pink flowers. A rarity, because it is not easy at all to grow in such an environment, adapting to harsh conditions such as strong winds, salty air and rocky soils almost without substrate.
The armeria euscadiensis shares this space with ferns, brooms and heathers. And with the wild olive trees, scattered across the island of Aketxe. There are no olive trees this far north in the Iberian Peninsula. Those of Aketxe survive as a testimony of a time when the climate here was much milder than it is today.
The bridge and the 241 steps
Once you pass the small gate, the first steps are on packed earth, then the bridge appears. Two perfect arches, smoothed by centuries of wind, rain and footsteps. The stone is dark, almost black where it meets the sea, while it is lighter where the feet of pilgrims have worn it down.
Don’t let the rush to reach the top fool you. As always, it’s the journey that makes the difference.
Stop halfway. Below you, you will see emerald green water, then suddenly deep blue. I tried to take a thousand photos, but none managed to capture what I saw and felt in that moment.
Beyond the bridge, the climb awaits you: a winding path of 241 steps (some ancient sources mention 232 or 300, but today the certain number is 241) that overcome 80 meters of elevation gain.
It may feel discouraging, but reaching the hermitage should be a small ritual.
In any case, don’t simply call them “stairs”. These are irregular steps, some high, others low, worn down in the center by the passage of millions of footsteps. They are damp with sea salt, sometimes slippery (be careful!). The wooden handrail in some sections is smooth, in others rough and splintered. It really gives you the sense of what San Juan de Gaztelugatxe has experienced over the centuries.
The higher you climb, the more the world as you know it moves away.
The first stretch is the hardest. My legs started to protest early. Then, mysteriously, I found the rhythm. The more you climb, the more you will understand why this place has been sacred for a thousand years.
Don’t forget to turn around from time to time. The view is a reward that grows with every meter gained. You are surrounded by the coast, the cliffs, the sea and the wind.
Halfway up, you will find a small altar in the rock. An image of Saint John, worn by time, with fresh flowers in front of it. Someone who passed before you must have left a thought, a prayer, a wish. You can do the same.
Then continue until you reach the last step… which is different from the others. It is lower, more worn. If you look carefully you will find a faint engraving. It is the footprint of Saint John’s foot. One of his famous three steps. Place your foot on the same spot… it is said to cure many problems! Not a believer? It doesn’t matter… they say it never hurts to try!
The hermitage of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
Perhaps you will be surprised, but once you reach the top, the hermitage may disappoint you. It is small, almost intimate. Dark stone, a gabled roof, an iron cross.
Inside it is very simple: there is the scent of incense and humidity, of old wood and wax. A few benches, a handful of statues, and Saint John the Baptist welcoming you.
Outside, next to the entrance, there is the bell. Here you must absolutely respect the tradition: ring it three times. While you ring it, make a wish—everyone does it… even those who say they do not believe in wishes.
Saint John the Baptist once protected sailors from a storm at sea, and it is said that San Juan de Gaztelugatxe can protect people from the storms of life.
If you are lucky enough to be here at sunset, I’ve been told that the panorama becomes a palette of impossible colors: purple, orange, pink, deep blue. It must be truly unique!
The descent
Going down is less tiring than climbing up, but not faster. Now you can focus on the details: a shell wedged into the rock, faded inscriptions in Basque, the cliff and the coastline opening up before you.
And you meet those who are climbing up. They are out of breath, their gaze focused. Encourage them: “It’s worth it.” They will thank you!
And in the end, after about 2 hours, which in reality have flown by, the bridge appears again and with it the return to reality.
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is a destination you simply should not miss when visiting the Basque Country. Arriving well prepared, however, is essential.
The site is exposed to wind and the changing conditions of the Cantabrian Sea, so even in summer it is wise to carry a lightweight windproof or waterproof jacket. I bought this jacket, and it was one of the most useful things I packed.
Do not be deceived by the oceanic climate: the sun can still be strong in summer. A hat, sunglasses and good sunscreen are essential. I always carry this sunscreen with me: it is small but very effective.
The climb can be demanding, and the route may be damp because of rain or mist rising from the sea. It is therefore essential to wear comfortable, well-tested shoes with a good, non-slip sole.
A reusable water bottle is a great companion, especially when visiting San Juan de Gaztelugatxe in August. I bought a foldable silicone bottle from Natura, although it is sometimes out of stock. In any case, you can find a similar one here, which takes up very little space once it has been emptied and folded.
If you plan to reach the site by walking along the cliffs, do not underestimate the temptation to take a dip in the Cantabrian Sea. Pack your swimming costume, a lightweight beach towel, a pair of water shoes and a practical bag for your wet swimming costume. I bought this towel so that I could always carry it with me when visiting seaside destinations: it is practical and takes up very little space.
Although the climate is generally mild, it is worth carrying a sweatshirt or a lightweight scarf for when the sea breeze becomes stronger.
Small items such as a power bank may seem unimportant, but they make the day much easier, especially when you are using your phone for navigation and want to photograph all the most beautiful corners and moments of your visit. I was given this one and I am very happy with it. There are countless different models, but whichever one you choose, I strongly recommend taking one with you.
Finally, bear in mind that although frost is uncommon along the coast in winter, the cold can still feel quite biting. Wrap up warmly!
If I can give you one piece of advice, don’t turn Gaztelugatxe into a “checklist” stop.
Experience it while thinking about the stories of fishermen who came here asking for protection, of lovers who promised fidelity, of mothers who prayed for their children at sea.
Gaztelugatxe is all of this: a physical place that becomes spiritual, a piece of land that tastes of sky… and of sea.
